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Food & Cuisine in Jordan

Jordanian Cuisine

Introduction to Jordanian Cuisine

Jordanian cuisine is a delicious reflection of the country's history, geography, and cultural influences. Drawing from Bedouin traditions, Palestinian heritage, and broader Levantine culinary practices, Jordanian food is characterized by aromatic spices, fresh ingredients, and generous hospitality.

Food in Jordan is more than just sustenance—it's a social experience and an expression of the country's famous hospitality. Meals are typically shared, with multiple dishes placed in the center of the table for everyone to enjoy together.

Quick Summary

  • Must-try dishes: Mansaf, maqluba, mezze, knafeh
  • Dining customs: Communal eating, generous portions
  • Meal times: Lunch (main meal) 2-4pm, dinner 8-10pm
  • Budget: Street food (JD1-3), mid-range restaurants (JD7-15 per person)
  • Dietary restrictions: Vegetarian options widely available, halal standard

Essential Jordanian Dishes

National Dishes

Mansaf

Jordan's national dish and a symbol of Bedouin hospitality, mansaf consists of lamb cooked in a fermented dried yogurt sauce called jameed, served over a bed of aromatic rice and topped with nuts. Traditionally eaten communally with the right hand, mansaf is often served at celebrations and special occasions.

Where to try it: Tawaheen Al-Hawa in Amman, Reem Al-Bawadi, or at a local home invitation

Maqluba

Literally meaning "upside-down," maqluba is a layered dish of rice, vegetables (typically eggplant, cauliflower, and potatoes), and meat (chicken or lamb). It's cooked in a pot that is flipped upside down when served, creating a dramatic presentation. Often garnished with pine nuts and served with yogurt.

Where to try it: Sufra Restaurant on Rainbow Street in Amman

Zarb

A traditional Bedouin barbecue where meat and vegetables are slow-cooked in an underground pit. This ancient cooking method is especially popular in Wadi Rum, where many desert camps prepare zarb for their guests.

Where to try it: Bedouin camps in Wadi Rum

Mezze

Mezze refers to a selection of small dishes served as appetizers or as a meal in itself. Jordanian meals often begin with an assortment of mezze, which might include:

  • Hummus: Creamy chickpea and tahini dip
  • Moutabel: Smoky eggplant dip with tahini
  • Tabbouleh: Parsley salad with bulgur, tomatoes, and mint
  • Fattoush: Fresh vegetable salad with toasted pita bread
  • Labneh: Strained yogurt, often served with olive oil and za'atar
  • Falafel: Deep-fried chickpea patties
  • Kibbeh: Bulgur shells stuffed with spiced meat and pine nuts
  • Warak Enab: Stuffed vine leaves with rice and herbs

Where to try it: Hashem Restaurant in downtown Amman (a local institution), Sufra, or Fakhr El-Din

Pro Tip

When ordering mezze, start with a few dishes and order more as needed. Jordanians tend to order generously, and you might be surprised by the portion sizes!

Main Dishes

Musakhan

Roasted chicken served on taboon bread that has been topped with sumac, sautéed onions, and pine nuts. The bread absorbs the flavorful chicken juices, creating a delicious combination.

Kofta

Grilled skewers of ground meat (usually lamb or beef) mixed with herbs and spices. Often served with rice, salad, and tahini sauce.

Shish Tawook

Marinated chicken skewers grilled to perfection. The marinade typically includes yogurt, lemon, and garlic, resulting in tender and flavorful meat.

Sayadieh

A coastal dish of fish (typically sea bass) served on a bed of spiced rice with caramelized onions and tahini sauce. More common in Aqaba.

Freekeh

A nutritious grain dish made from young green wheat that has been roasted. Often prepared with chicken or meat and flavored with cinnamon, allspice, and other aromatic spices.

Street Food

Shawarma

Thinly sliced meat (chicken or beef) that has been roasted on a vertical spit, served in bread with tahini sauce, pickles, and vegetables. A popular quick meal throughout Jordan.

Where to try it: Reem Shawarma in Amman's 2nd Circle or Shawarma Reem in downtown

Falafel

Deep-fried patties made from ground chickpeas, herbs, and spices. Usually served in pita bread with tahini sauce, tomatoes, and pickles.

Where to try it: Al-Quds or Hashem Restaurant in downtown Amman

Manakish

A flatbread topped with za'atar (a blend of thyme, sesame seeds, and sumac), cheese, or ground meat. Often eaten for breakfast or as a snack.

Arayes

Pita bread stuffed with seasoned ground meat and grilled until crispy. A delicious handheld meal.

Desserts

Knafeh

A beloved dessert made of shredded phyllo dough or semolina, layered with cheese, soaked in sweet syrup, and topped with crushed pistachios. The contrast between the sweet syrup and slightly salty cheese creates a unique flavor profile.

Where to try it: Habibah Sweets in downtown Amman

Baklava

Layers of phyllo dough filled with chopped nuts and sweetened with syrup or honey. Available in various shapes and variations.

Qatayef

Sweet dumplings filled with cheese or nuts, then fried or baked and soaked in syrup. Especially popular during Ramadan.

Meghli

A spiced rice pudding topped with nuts, traditionally served to celebrate a new baby.

Beverages

Arabic Coffee (Qahwa)

A symbol of Bedouin hospitality, Arabic coffee is lightly roasted and flavored with cardamom. Served in small cups without handles, often accompanied by dates.

Mint Tea

Fresh mint leaves steeped with tea and sweetened with sugar. Commonly offered as a welcome drink.

Fresh Juices

Jordan offers excellent fresh fruit juices, including sugar cane juice, pomegranate, orange, and lemon with mint (limonana).

Arak

An anise-flavored spirit similar to ouzo or raki. When mixed with water, it turns cloudy white. The most common alcoholic beverage in Jordan.

Regional Specialties

Amman and Northern Jordan

  • Mansaf: Most authentic in the northern regions
  • Kousa Mahshi: Stuffed zucchini with rice and meat
  • Shish Barak: Meat dumplings in yogurt sauce

Petra and Central Jordan

  • Galayet Bandora: Tomato stew with olive oil and garlic
  • Zarb: Underground barbecue
  • Maqluba: Popular throughout central Jordan

Wadi Rum and Southern Desert

  • Zarb: The traditional Bedouin barbecue
  • Arbood: Bedouin bread baked in ashes
  • Jameed soup: Made from the same fermented yogurt used in mansaf

Aqaba (Red Sea)

  • Sayadieh: Fish with spiced rice
  • Grilled fish: Fresh catches from the Red Sea
  • Seafood platters: Influenced by coastal cuisine

Dining Customs and Etiquette

Meal Times

  • Breakfast (Iftar): 7-10am, often includes hummus, falafel, labneh, olives, and flatbread
  • Lunch (Ghada): The main meal of the day, typically between 2-4pm
  • Dinner (Asha): Usually lighter than lunch, served between 8-10pm
  • Restaurants: Often open late, with peak dinner hours around 9pm

Hospitality Customs

  • Refusing food or drink can be considered impolite; it's better to accept at least a small amount
  • Hosts will often insist you take more food ("Tfaddal/i" - "Please help yourself")
  • It's customary to leave a little food on your plate to show you've had enough
  • Complimenting the food is appreciated ("Sahtain" - "Two healths" is a way to say "enjoy your meal")

Eating Etiquette

  • If eating with hands (as with mansaf), use only your right hand
  • When sharing communal dishes, take from the portion closest to you
  • Wait for elders or hosts to begin eating before you start
  • It's polite to try a bit of everything offered

Pro Tip

If invited to a Jordanian home for a meal, bringing a small gift like sweets or fruit is appreciated. Avoid bringing alcohol unless you're certain your hosts drink.

Dietary Considerations

Vegetarian and Vegan Options

Jordan is quite vegetarian-friendly, with many mezze dishes naturally meat-free:

  • Hummus, moutabel, tabbouleh, fattoush, and many salads are vegan
  • Falafel and foul (fava beans) provide protein-rich options
  • Specify "bidoon lahem" (without meat) when ordering
  • Be aware that some rice dishes might be cooked in meat stock

Halal Food

As a predominantly Muslim country, most food in Jordan is halal by default. Alcohol is available in international hotels, some restaurants, and licensed liquor stores.

Gluten-Free Options

Gluten-free dining requires more planning:

  • Rice-based dishes like maqluba can be good options
  • Many mezze like hummus and moutabel are naturally gluten-free
  • Be cautious of cross-contamination in kitchens
  • Consider carrying translation cards explaining your dietary needs

Where to Eat in Jordan

Amman

Traditional Experiences

  • Hashem Restaurant: Iconic eatery serving excellent falafel and hummus
  • Sufra: Traditional Jordanian cuisine in a beautiful heritage house on Rainbow Street
  • Fakhr El-Din: Upscale Lebanese and Jordanian cuisine in a historic villa
  • Al Quds: Famous for its falafel and hummus

Modern Dining

  • Jasmine House: Contemporary Levantine cuisine
  • Fakhreldin: Elegant Lebanese restaurant in a historic setting
  • Wild Jordan Center: Eco-friendly café with panoramic views

Petra (Wadi Musa)

  • The Basin Restaurant: Located inside Petra, good for lunch during sightseeing
  • My Mom's Recipe Restaurant: Authentic home-style Jordanian food
  • Al Qantarah: Traditional dishes with a view

Wadi Rum

  • Bedouin Camps: Most camps offer traditional zarb dinners
  • Captain's Desert Camp: Known for excellent Bedouin cuisine
  • Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp: Upscale dining in the desert

Aqaba

  • Ali Baba Restaurant: Fresh seafood with Red Sea views
  • Royal Yacht Club: Upscale dining with marina views
  • Fish Fish: Local favorite for seafood

Dead Sea

  • Ashur Pizza & Grill: Casual dining with Dead Sea views
  • Resort Restaurants: Most Dead Sea resorts have good restaurants

Food Experiences and Activities

Cooking Classes

  • Beit Sitti: "Grandmother's House" cooking school in Amman
  • Petra Kitchen: Learn to make traditional dishes in Wadi Musa
  • Feynan Ecolodge: Bread-making and traditional cooking demonstrations

Food Tours

  • Taste of Amman Food Tour: Explore downtown eateries
  • Engaging Cultures Food Tours: Culinary walks through different neighborhoods

Markets and Food Shopping

  • Amman Souk: Downtown market for fresh produce and spices
  • Sweifieh Spice Market: Excellent selection of local spices
  • Jordan River Foundation: High-quality food products supporting local communities

Food Souvenirs

Take home a taste of Jordan with these food souvenirs:

  • Za'atar: Thyme and sesame spice blend
  • Jordanian olive oil: High-quality and distinctive
  • Dates: Especially Medjool varieties
  • Jameed: Dried yogurt balls used in mansaf (check import regulations)
  • Jordanian honey: Often flavored with herbs
  • Arabic coffee with cardamom: Pre-ground and ready to brew

Pro Tip

The best place to buy food souvenirs is at specialty shops like Jabri or Abu Seit in Amman, where products are properly packaged for travel. Avoid buying perishable items if you have a long journey home.

Budget and Costs

Street Food and Budget Eats

  • Falafel sandwich: JD0.5-1 ($0.70-1.40)
  • Shawarma sandwich: JD1-2 ($1.40-2.80)
  • Hummus plate: JD1-3 ($1.40-4.20)
  • Manakish: JD0.5-1.5 ($0.70-2.10)

Mid-Range Restaurants

  • Mezze selection: JD10-15 ($14-21) for two people
  • Main dish: JD5-10 ($7-14)
  • Full meal with drinks: JD15-25 ($21-35) per person

Upscale Dining

  • Fine dining restaurants: JD25-50+ ($35-70+) per person
  • Hotel restaurants: JD20-40 ($28-56) per person

Beverages

  • Bottled water: JD0.25-1 ($0.35-1.40)
  • Fresh juice: JD1-3 ($1.40-4.20)
  • Coffee or tea: JD1-2 ($1.40-2.80)
  • Local beer: JD3-5 ($4.20-7)
  • Imported beer or wine: JD5-10 ($7-14)

Food Safety Tips

  • Drink bottled or filtered water
  • Eat at busy restaurants with high turnover
  • Fresh fruits and vegetables should be washed or peeled
  • Street food is generally safe if it's cooked fresh and hot
  • Carry hand sanitizer for before meals

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